Silverbrowlette

At 2.07pm today, our baby daughter was born. She's beautiful and has already brought us immense joy. Days simply can't get any better than today.

But - and here's the rub - her arrival means posting here is going to be very light for the foreseeable future. I'm sure you'll understand.

I'm not going to get the chance to explain why I regard much of Jay Rayner's latest book, The Man Who Ate the World, as a manifesto for eating. In many ways it's the food book I'd love to have written. It's erudite, funny and most of all it's about his sheer unadulterated love affair with good food.

There were some points I'd like to explore further, but I won't have the chance. If you feel so inclined though, maybe you could address why he doesn't eat anywhere in Spain and San Sebastian in particular. I know there are many great restaurant cities, but given the book's title and the global influence of El Bulli, it seems a bit remiss. I was surprised by the frequent references to his Ashkenazic roots - more an observation than a question. And finally, a second observation, I was most disappointed by the London chapter. I was hoping for a bit more insight on dining in the capital - although maybe that was the point of his dinner with his parents at Rules. For him, that's how it started - with the family - and despite all those Ashkenazi references, his palate lies with excellent, reliable, grounded restaurants.

I'm not going to be able to note how useful The Opinionated About Fine Dining Survey 2008 would have been to Jay on his travels. Nor can I riff about how fitting it is that both Jay's book and the OA book came out in the same month, given that Jay is a regular contributor to the OA forums amongst others. If you're the type of person who either travels in order to eat, or checks out the decent restaurants before deciding where to stay, the OA guide is for you. Ignore the others like Michelin, Zagat and Hardens. If you care what people like you think about Europe and the US's best restaurants, get your mitts on this.

I'm also going to be unable to write-up my meals at The Grill at The Dorchester or Hibiscus. Suffice to say Aiden Byrne (can't help but think of Dick) is a fantastic chef and a very nice bloke. The room at the Dorchester is hideous, but the food is generally astounding. We had a tasting menu, chosen by the chef, with wine pairings courtesy of the sommelier. It was a treat. One word of caution though, steer clear of any dessert with mushrooms in the chocolate sauce.

Similarly, I loved Hibiscus. They were accommodating, I found the much maligned room quite cosy and the food is astounding. Claude Bosi might not be comfortable working the dining room at the end of service, but he knows his way around the stove and I look forward to many return visits.

The Grill at The Dorchester, The Dorchester, Park Lane, London, W1K 1QA, UK
Tel: +44 20 7629 8888

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Hibiscus, 29 Maddox Street, London, W1S 2PA, UK

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Comments

[YKL]

Congratulations on the new arrival Silverbrow - hope mother and daughter are doing well!

[Su-Lin]

Many congratulations!

[Laura Kidd]

Congratulations Anthony - wonderful news! Best wishes to all of you :)

[Douglas]

Super news! Congratulations...

I've been meaning to give Aiden Byrne a go for a while (his talents have been eclisped by Ducasses next door).

Incidentally, I'm currently trying to persuade Jay Rayner to take me on a review reconaissance. He made me write an e-mail justifying. I said I'd bring a fine wine treat. Let's see.

[Lizet]

Congratulations for mrs Silverbrow and you. I foresee a wonderful future for baby Silverbrow.

[Trig]

Congratulations, Anthony. Get those flavours into her food as soon as you can.

[Silverbrow]

One and all, many thanks for your kind wishes. To Trig's point, I was intrigued to learn that it's not really until the age of 2 that children become fussy eaters. Supposedly it's an evolutionary tool to prevent the little blighters running out of the cave and shoving a tyrannosauras' tail in its mouth. I've also read recently that fussy eaters beget fussy eaters. So there's hope for the little one!

Douglas, and others, do go to eat Aiden's food. And what's a review reconnaisance?

[Douglas]

R.R. means accompanying a critic on a restaurant review mission. i went to the Havelock Tavern with Matthew Norman about a year and a half ago. I am thoroughly enjoying Jay Rayner's book at the moment and wanted to meet the gluttinous engine behind it...

[Pete]

Big congratulations! I read somewhere that breast milk is high in glutamates and therefore our first experience of umami - might explain why kids become fussy eaters once they're weaned off the milk!

[Anthony Silverbrow]

Cheers Pete - and yes, I'd heard the same thing about it and supposedly it's what umami flavoured foods taste so good and comforting.

[Jeanne]

Hearty congratulations! May the joy only increase.

Both the Dorchester and Hibiscus are definitely going straight onto my "to do" list after your endorsement, as is the Jay Rayner book (if I can find a space for it in my already overflowing bookshelves!!)

[Anthony Silverbrow]

I'd recommend all three of them.

[aunty sharm]

Congratulations on the new arrival!

Can't wait to see the Hibiscus review, as ate their yesterday and am still being hit with paroxysms of delight.

[Niamh]

Congratulations! What an exciting time for you.

I must check out Jay Rayner's book. I have a stack that I am struggling to get through right now, but, I may move this to the top. I have yet to try Hibiscus and the Dorchester so look forward to hearing more.

[Anthony Silverbrow]

Many thanks Niamh