I still think that if you tell a customer that you are looking forward to seeing them, but you want to make clear what time you want them out, is not a particularly welcoming thing to do.
Anyway, despite that I really can't hate Trullo. I loved it. Yes, I was apprehensive going in, but once it, it was an almost (see the dessert) flawless meal.
There is something cossetting about the blue tongue-and-groove room. The service was faultless. Just the right side of familiar, but totally focused on ensuring we had a great meal. They were at pains to ensure that our slightly offbeat prosecco was to our liking and once the food was delivered, pretty much left us to enjoy ourselves.
We started by sharing a delicious, sloppy burrata with sticky, honeyed figs. I then had a ricotta and butter ravioli that was silky, slippery and with a decent bite. Silverbrowess had an almond soup. I tried making one of these many years ago. Mine turned out to be a gritty, garlicky mush. Trullo's was a smooth, sexy mouthful.
For main course I had a perfectly grilled mackerel (they could teach Brasserie Zedel a thing or two about grilling fish). The skin was charred, adding a smoky note to the moist meat within. Silverbrowess had a crespelle. It is basically a veggie crepe covered in cheese. She loved it, which is what counts. I thought it tasted fine, but was more than happy with my mackerel.
The one off note was dessert. We ordered the white-peach and almond tart and asked for a taster of the burned caramel ice-cream. They kindly gave us a full scoop of the ice-cream, swapping it for what I think was supposed to be creme-fraiche that accompanied the tart. I don't think the tart did justice to what I imagine was probably some delicious fruit. It felt a bit of a waste. The ice-cream was far too burned and I found it bordering on the unpleasant.
One last word on that silly reservation policy of telling us we needed to be out after two hours. We were comfortably out of our seats by 10. Not because we rushed, or felt rushed, but because the restaurant paced the meal and made sure that we were out in time. Which is exactly why surely, they don't need to forewarn you. They are good at turning tables, just do it, don't bother telling the customer you are doing it.
However, despite the dessert and the booking policy, I love the place and will be back there in a shot. Most of the food was very good, great ingredients and spot-on cooking. I'll ignore their entreaties to bugger off when I book and I'll simply order another antipasti and just ignore the desserts.
Trullo, 300-302 Saint Paul's Road, London, N1 2LH, UK
+44 (0)20 7226 2733
What others think
Jay Rayner - Great food, expertly cooked and served by friendly waiting staff… There's no secret to Trullo's success.