Not letting sleeping dogs lie
To rehash an old argument, if a blogger had got a top chef to cook for them for the sole purpose of writing a review on a restaurant that isn't yet in existence, it would have caused a right hoo-ha. There is no way any of us could replicate this meal as it is a one off specifically requested by Giles so he could write a review. It also reignites the hoary issue of the anonymity of reviewers.
Nonetheless, it did suitably whet my appetite for my imminent dinner at La Tainte Claire so I guess everyone wins: Giles for getting the master's attention and what sounds like a fantastic meal, the restaurant for the PR and the diner for being on tenterhooks.
It reminds me that yes reviewers on national papers are in a priveleged position and no they may not experience the same meal as us. But it doesn't make their copy worthless or any less interesting.