Michelin 2007 rumours
The 2007 Michelin UK restaurant rankings are due out this week. They will be announced on Wednesday and the books will be in the shops on Friday. When it comes to rankings for European restaurants, Michelin remains the most influential. It is the guide that chefs most frequently admit they grudgingly admire and aspire to.
Second guessing the Michelin man is akin to Kremlinology. Anyone with half an ounce of knowledge will pontificate about the intricacies of the awards and how they are doled out. Rumours doing the rounds this year include the possibility that Gordon Ramsay's flagship Royal Hospital Road might lose its third star, and that David Everitt-Matthias chef-patron of Le Champignon Sauvage will get promoted from two to three. This is not like the Premiership or the FTSE. If one drops out the top flight, there is no certainty another will replace it. If the rumours are true and Ramsay does slip down it will be massive news. RHR is London's only 3-star restaurant and one of only three in the UK (The Waterside Inn and The Fat Duck are the other two) and Ramsay is the celebrity chef who we either love or loathe. This will be bad news compounding bad news for Ramsay, following the poor reviews of his latest venture The London in New York. There is also some debate about whether Anthony's in Leeds will receive its first star.
There is a widely held belief among Michelin-watchers that the Michelin judges fundamentally like giving stars to chefs, rather than restaurants. So if a chef leaves a restaurant, the restaurant will lose a star and his new establishment will gain one. This rule is being invoked by those arguing that Arbutus will get its first star this week because Anthony Demetre, Arbutus' chef-patron had a star at the now defunct Putney Bridge. However, others are arguing there are several exceptions to this rule and that Arbutus is too much like a bistro to ever garner a star from the protector of haute-cuisine, the Michelin inspector.
If other rumours are true, there might be some succour for Ramsay: Pétrus is tipped to be awarded an additional star, making it a two star, and further recognition for Marcus Wareing. Equally, Tom Aikens might scrabble his way up to two. Galvin at Windows, Chris Galvin's new venture at the top of the Hilton in London, might get its first star.
It will be an interesting one to watch. Also worth keeping an eye out for are the bib-gourmands and the espoir. The bib-gourmands are what Michelin gives for "good food at reasonable prices." In other words, not fine dining, but great food and good value. An espoir is given to restaurants that will likely get either their first star or an additional star next year. These are the restaurants to watch in 2007.
In this age of blogs, food forums, newspapers etc etc, Michelin has clearly reduced in importance. There is no longer such a requirement for a single authoritative guide of where to eat when you and the family are motoring. However, the guides still sell well, the decisions of the inspectors receive significant column inches (and pixels) and chefs still care deeply about their stars. The fat man rules.
Can't wait to see the announcements as I have a real love/hate relationship with Michelin. I have some strong opinions about some of the contenders (positive and negative) but I can't express them this side of graduation.
Posted by: Trig | 21 January 2007 at 11:33 PM
Not sure I beleive that Gordon Ramsay at RHR will be demoted a star... although, I have heard the rumour too. It would be a brave move, but would it be fair? The cooking there remains first class, even if the Ramsay Group's has its eyes fixed on rapid exapnsion!
Can't wait for the announcement - I'm sure there'll be some suprises.
Posted by: Joel | 22 January 2007 at 09:09 AM
Trig - I think lots of people in the trade feel the same way. On the one hand they hate having to cook to please the inspector, on the other they love it when they get recognition. Morgan M is one example of a chef desperate for a star - he probably deserves it, if only because of all the old Guides Rouge he has littered around the restaurant. Then again, the neighbourhood is hardly Michelin-country.
Joel - I haven't eaten at RHR so can't comment based on personal experience. However, it would be a bit of a coup if they did demote him. I've heard really mixed reviews about meals there recently.
Posted by: Silverbrow | 22 January 2007 at 09:12 AM
I feel sorry for Morgan, inasmuch as I ever feel sorry for anyone "desperate for a star", because his food is definitely up to standard. If you are really good (or have very good PR agents) you might get away with a restaurant miles down a mountain dirt track in Catalunya, but as you say the wrong end of Islington is a far more serious location, location, location mistake!
Posted by: Trig | 23 January 2007 at 06:39 AM