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12 posts from November 2005

14 November 2005

Love, politics and eGullet

France is famed for its food.  It is currently reacquanting itself with its reputation for political rioting.  eGullet is famed for being all about food.  It is currently getting a reputation for being the home of gastronomic and political skirmishes.

For those who don't know, eGullet defines itself as being "The Society for Culinary Arts and Letters" and has a tag line of "Read. Chew. Discuss."  You would be right if you thought - what a load of pretentious bullshit.  But, for many of us, we've overlooked such issues for the pleasure of posting on the site, reading the experiences of others, vicariously enjoying meals at the best restaurants in the world, picking up tidbits of cooking info or hearing the latest gossip.  Sometimes we even get to share space with the great and the good of the culinary world, such as Anthony Bourdain or Michael Ruhlman.

However, the past couple of weeks have seen a battle ensue.  On the one side are those who argue the place is run like a dictatorship, with no appreciation of the members and a wanton attitude by the management.  The other side, largely made up of the management, argue that they are running the society in the best interest of the Society, the members don't really count and simply, they know best.  You may have guessed, I side with the former band of malcontents.

After many locked threads and deleted posts, they at last allowed a couple of threads (here and here) that questioned the management (remind anyone of the happy days of the USSR or China?).  Up until today, the majority of the complaints have come from everyday members.  They may be well respected, such as Jack Lang or Jon Tseng, but they're not names.  Not like Michael Ruhlman.

Ruhlman it would seem is mightily pissed-off at having a post deleted.  This afternoon, he posted questioning why this happened, and what the motives behind it were.  I'm not going to go into the full ins and outs of this whole ugly affair because frankly there isn't the bandwidth.  I've posted below a verbatim quote of Ruhlman's thread, because in the ugly world of eGullet, such dissenting views often get erased.

Hopefully, Ruhlman's vehement intervention will mean this issue gets some traction, maybe picked up in the print media.  This might then mean that the likes of Steve Shaw, Dave Scantland and all the other moderators and managers on the site see sense.  They realise that the reason so many people are complaining is because they enjoy the site and want it at it's best, not destroyed by people whose power has gone to their head, thanks to the 'Delete Post' button.

As promised, here is an exchange between Ruhlman and Dave Scantland.  You should be able to link to it here, but just in case it's deleted, read away.  (NB The first two posts below carried extracts from earlier posts in the same thread.  For ease, I have edited out the extracts, as it would be very confusing for you, dear reader, distinguishing between the extract, and what had actually been written by the poster.)

Posted by Michael Ruhlman
Ah, the crux of the matter.

Russ was right that this thread came about because of a single poster—but there are more components than that, which he rightly brings up here.

To put it more explicitly: say, hypothetically, the person calling themselves rocketman were in fact Michael Psaltis—let me continue! This is only hypothetical. Well if it were or if the brother of the maligned/defended chef were posting through a pal, it would very much change the meaning.

One person who monitors this thread, comments at length on it, and has the ability to edit and censor, namely Fat Guy, happens to be the client and friend of Michael Psaltis—this is a clear conflict of interest in a thread devoted to Michael's brother.

Combine this with comments I’ve been hearing off eGullet from current and former eGullet team members about unfair censoring (and an unexplained deletion of a comment of mine that I’m sure Steven didn’t care for, one supporting something russ had to say)…well, I smelled a skunk. But more important: if this could happen, what else could? If the eGullet ringleaders knew someone to be a shill or a slanderer, would they still allow them to continue to post? Will a friend of Steven Shaw who wants to promote his book on egullet be more likely to have it done than someone who doesn’t know him or Jason or whomever. And if Steven doesn’t like someone, say he’s annoyed by some of the things I say, is it less likely I’ll be able to have eGullet excerpt my next book if I ask for consideration?

I don’t know how management makes decisions but I’ve heard enough upset people who care about egullet and felt my own radar on high enough alert, to need to be skeptical and to want to know how it works.

I’ve never argued that people should be forced to reveal themselves (this stalking issue is unnerving), but perhaps there are some instances in which managemnt might require people to use real names. Those who for whatever reasons wish or need to maintain anonymity would have to watch from the sidelines in those rare instances. Anonymity comes with a price too.

Perhaps those who post on tendentious issues, shouldn’t be allowed to moderate and censor as well.

Steven’s most salient point in all this was his comment that this is a new medium. Indeed it is and I want it to work and develop meaningfully. I don’t think you need a Public Editor, but maybe some sort of cyberspace version of it.

I’m grateful for all these posts, too much to comment on--smart and interesting comments for and against anonymity by so many people.
Posted by Dave Scantland
Michael, you have had your say. Now it's time to move on. We are not going to continually rehash the handling of any given topic or the deletion of a post. Not only has all this been explained to you in private correspondence, but it is a never-ending process that we don't permit, for reasons we have explained many times.

For the record: we have thoroughly investigated Rocketman's identity. He is not a chef, not a sous chef, not Michael Psaltis. He does not appear to be involved in the culinary community in any way, except by acquaintance. He is surely a friend of one or both Psaltises -- but then, you don't need to know his name to determine that, do you? We know his name (a rather common one), his address (a big city) and where he works (at a desk job unrelated to the culinary world). Knowing any of this wouldn't change a thing, and we are going to maintain his anonymity per our policies. If he violates the member agreement, we will delete his posts (and have on several occasions), just as we will delete any post that violates the member agreement. The issue of Rocketman is closed. It is inappropriate -- not to say inconsiderate -- that we have had to speak so specifically and publicly about a member in response to these incessant harangues.

Of course we know there's a potential conflict of interest whenever a member of management is close to a debate. That's why we don't allow those conflicts to affect our moderating policy. A manager -- even the executive director -- who gets close to a debate is required from the point of their involvement to act as a participant.

Everybody who has had a point to make in the Psaltis discussion has had the opportunity to make it -- repeatedly -- including you, Michael. You are still complaining that your post about anonymity was removed, even though you were allowed to start this whole, lengthy topic on the subject. Likewise, the purpose of this topic was not to rehash the Psaltis affair but, rather, to discuss the phenomenon of psuedonyms and what they mean for online discussion. That discussion is worth pursuing. From this point on, rehashing of: any specific topic; any decision to delete; or any member's status will be removed without further comment. And no, Michael, you won't receive an explanation. You should be smart enough to know that when a moderator says stop and you continue, your post will be removed.
UPDATE: AS EXPECTED THE POST BELOW HAS NOW BEEN DELETED FROM eG
Posted by Michael Ruhlman

no need to get pissy. dave.

I'll continue to complain if the person deleting my post is someone actively involved in the argument.

but I'm happy to let this matter drop. would much prefer to read what paula has to say...

10 November 2005

Book of Rai

New food forums are sprouting up ten a penny at the moment - thanks largely to eGullet.  However, I want everyone to go and take a look at a new one, Book of Rai.  Like so many others, it has been setup because of even more people being disenchanted with eGullet.  It is all about food itself, with a special focus on foods from around the world and how they're cooked. 

What is particularly exciting about BoR (not the best acronym) is that I'm a moderator on the Europe and Calendar/Events fora.  I'm still trying to understand what that means, apart obviously from POWER.  Anyway, I recommend taking a look. 

Don't get me wrong, I'll still be regularly posting and reading the likes of OA and Mouthfuls, maybe even Mongomania, but a bit of competition for all the others is no bad thing.

08 November 2005

Events

My keen eyed (ir)regular readers will have spotted the new box in the right hand column, entitled Upcoming.org Events.  If you click on any of the events, you'll be directed to a group I've setup on Upcoming.org called Global Grub

Upcoming is a bit of a whizz bang site that enables events to be posted and tagged according to topic.  In a similar way to the tagging systems used at Technorati, Flickr or del.icio.us.  I'm not going to explain it here, but all these tags are folksonomy tools.  (Click the word folksonomy for a wikipedia explanation of what it actually means.)

If you're interested in finding out about food or wine events, take a look at the Global Grub page, or even better, sign up as a member and post your own events.  I have a grandiose scheme to make this the central resource for all food related events.

In the rather cloistered world of food related websites, events are a touchy subject.  It is largely thanks to the draconian / benevolant dictatorial approach to organising events at eGullet, that other food forums such as Opinionated About, Mouthfuls and Mongomania were set-up.  Unlike eGullet, I or others, won't be seeking to control events on Global Grub, it's an open resource for all to use.  If it's food or drink related stick it on there. 

Please use it and sign up as a member. If you don't, I'll look like a complete arse.

02 November 2005

Goodbye Cinnamon Club?

It would seem that all is not well in Westminster.

According to reports on CatererSearch.com (the website of Caterer & Hotelkeeper magazine) there is a major restructuring going on at The Cinnamon Club.  Part of this includes the dreaded "roll-out of the brand".  In other words, open up Cinammon Clubs everywhere, dilute the quality and end-up as yet another concept restaurant (think TGI Friday set in Delhi).

However CS.com misses out on one crucial fact that is reported in tonight's Evening Standard.  Iqbal Wahhab, the founder of the Cinnamon Club has left the group.  He is quoted in the Evening Standard as saying that he is still a shareholder in the Cinnamon Club but is focussed on developing Roast.  According to the article the group has run-up debts of £1m.

If the Cinnamon Club goes tits-up as a result of this restructuring, it is a sad day for decent restaurants in London.  But it does raise the question of what on earth was going on, to cause such significant problems.

Lobbyist required

Kate at Accidental Hedonist has announced that the 2005 Food Blog Awards are soon to be launched.

It would seem that the 2004 award winners deserved their prizes.  Several, such as Chez Pim and Movable Feast, are regularly quoted in the print media and have a fantastic following.  Interestingly though, being nominated for an award isn't necessarily good news.  Some of the blogs nominated last year, such as Kosher Bachelor, FatMan Seoul, One Toque over the Line among several others, have gone silent since their nomination. 

I would be happy to be a trailblazer and prove that there is no such causal link.  I will prove that

nomination ≠ blog ignominy

Don't let it be said I'm not magnanimous.